Tuesday.
Just landed in Castrojeriz. Google it.
249 kms down the road and 460 to go.

Did too much on Sunday when we walked 40 kms. into Burgos. Made a late start on Monday and a now a light day on Tuesday. Lovely, lovely trail across the high mesas and into small villages. Threat of rain this morning that has since disolved into a clear blue day.

Since Burgos, the land has flattened out and climbed. We are away from the roads and walk kilometers and kilometers down trail and dirt tack, high and flat, with a feeling that this is in the sky. Wheat and barley, herds of sheep with bells, stone walls, red poppies. Villages the color of stone where the church steeple appears over the ridge.

A couple of nights, we have pitched up at the Church auberge (read dormitory... one big room with multiple bunks) where we help make supper, and then eat a communal meal. There is always a mass and the pilgrims are blessed (before you eat!). The community is fantastic, lively and entertaining. Koreans, americans, lots of French and a smattering of just some crazy guys walking from Germany or Belgium. Met a young Spanish guy who grew up in Kinshasa when we were there. Seems like lots of Americans.

Days are comfortable. We are usually out of the auberge and walking by 07:00 and will knock off 10 kms by 09:00 or 09:30. This means, of course, coffee and a spanish egg and potato omellet. Put feet up and chat with whoever else is on the same schedule. Do that again by noon. Walking is pretty easy and we have never been winded by the gradual climbs. Some of the decents have been challenging and Jill does not like to go down. We then look at the map and work out how far to go to find a place to stay. If we need to do another 5 or 10, that is just over two hours (not today...) and that is it for the day. Challenging, but it is now two and we have found a place to stay, washed up, run laundry and will go look for a place to sit in the plaza and drink wine.

Supper is impossible before 19:00. Then there is a set Menu des Pelegrino (Pilgrim´s Menu) for $10, including a bottle of wine. In by 21:00 because there is always some character who needs to be out the door at 05:00 (but its dark!) and wakes everyone in the room or better, a collection of guys who snore like buffalo. One guy hands out earplugs (we have!).

We do have a group of people that we see over and over. We have lost some and gained a few more. It is fun to pick up a conversation 2 days later. Interesting characters.

We are good. Still a bit sore from Sunday´s excess. No blisters. Packs are too heavy but Jill finished her novel, and donated her flipflops to charity; what will go next?

Life is good. Very, very good.

Tim & Jill