Camino Rules

There do appear to be a number of fairly 0bvious lessons learned from walking this distance. 

- Everything goes into your bag. There was regularly a moment of anxiety about 20 minutes after we had left where we had slept; what did I leave behind? I'd take my pack off in the middle of the trail, open up and check that I had in fact packed all of the essentials. We were packing everything into nicely organized stuff sacks so it was easy to check clothes, sleeping bag, first-aid, toilet kit, and money. I am sure that part of the anxiety was simply the fact that the boundaries around our daily existence were right there, in one bag, in one place and no more.

- You own it, you carry it. That first morning when we had everything spread out all over the hotel room was a terrible shock. Where did all of this stuff come from? We had planned carefully for our clothes but we had not put the same time and attention towards all the essential gizmos and doodads. And suddenly, they were everywhere with no where else to go. I left the hotel looking like a pack mule.

My African mentality of packing something because I might need it was wrong. I really should have taken all of the stuff that was absolutely essential and left half of that behind (an old trick from Outward Bound). The solar charger, the collapsible bucket, 3 rolls of tape, mandolin, a phone and an iTouch. Decide and discard; discipline required. 

The other shock was to come home and walk into the house, look around and ask the same question; where did all of this stuff come from? It has to go! Post camino, if I am buying something, I look at it three times to decide if I really need (to carry) it. Something that I would never have considered before is now a deliberate choice. And If I buy one thing, give two away.

- Slow down and look around. We did almost 500 miles in 31 days. When we started walking, we were focused on how far it was and how long it would take us to get there. The French seemed to be the most focused and the idea of a detour or a longer (more scenic) route only distracted from the objective of reaching their destination. Of course, they had been walking since Le Puy, twice the distance and twice the amount of time. But they did not have any interest in distraction.

Now that we have finished, I am anxious to go back and do it all again and to go as slow as I can. Stop everywhere and go walk up every side track and to scenic overlook. If there is a village a couple klicks up the road, go. Can I drag this out over 3 months? We met a couple of people who were walking back to where they came from.

- Farther along.  You would assume that folks who are out to walk 500 miles and spend a month doing it would we willing to walk a couple of hundred meters more for a great view, a unique piece of history, a nicer place to sleep and something special to eat. Not so. Consistently, even religiously, pilgrims were parked in that first bar on the edge of town, and would drop their bags in the first albuerge when 100 yards up the road their would be a nice, quiet place half empty. There was an important advantage to walking that extra 10 minutes and looking around. Another reason to keep a pack to a minimum.

- Off cycle. The guide books are extremely informative; distances, condition of the trail, places to stay and places to eat. The only two 'mistakes' we found were a municipal albuergue whose roof caved in over the winter, and another that burned down (on the Feast of St. Elmo!). 

The surprise was that most people start and stop their day as the guidebook indicated and just fell into the book's cycle of days. When we looked ahead at places to stay and sought out small town that were just under or just over the proposed schedule, it was as if we had discovered out own private camino with fewer people and more adventurous souls. Walk on.

- It is all about socks. We walked the entire way without a blister. Part of this was because our feet were used to exercise. Part of it was good walking shoes that were neither slippers or massive boots. Yet I remain convinced that it was the socks that mattered. We saw some of the ugliest feet imaginable on people with 15 kilos on their back and walking with running shoes and flimsy gym socks. This does not work. Don't spend a fortune on shoes and then scrimp on socks. Interestingly, these were the same folks who would not stop to let their feet heal until a doctor ordered them to stop (or amputate!).

It should be obvious that I am getting ready to go again.  


Tim

Brave Caminantes of the Road.

And all brave caminantes awarded Compostelas by the official Office of Peregrinos.

"Next time I think I´ll bring socks."
- Sebastian

"It's like eating an elephant - you do it one bite at a time."
- Tim

"You own it, you carry it."
- Katherine

"Is this vegan?"
- Chloe

"Who´s on the Camino del Norte with me next year?"
- Jill

Lunch in Galicia

That last 6 kms. after 2 bottles of wine at lunch is a killer.

Seriously hard work...

This is ´pulpo´, salad, Galicia soup and white wine in ceramic cups. What you can not see is that this is a huge hall with 30 or 40 long tables, a hoard of hungry pilgrims and as many local folks in for the speciality of the house. A good time was had by all. But that last walk of the day was finally in the sunshine.

Buen camino!

When brand new, high-tech, multi-pocketed backpacks suddenly showed up on our doorsteps, Chloe and I knew we had unwittingly agreed to join our parents on the Camino de Santiago. Not that anyone was objecting to a vacation in Spain! But this was the ultimate commitment device.

So a flight and two bus rides later, we arrived in the town of Sarria. Like many things in Spain, the monastery we slept in was a mish-mash of old and new: a severe stone building with its shuttered cloisters, but a kitchen for the pilgrims complete with coffee vending machines and a flat screen TV.

The next morning we were treated to a light day - just 20 km - through the Spanish countryside. It was misty and slightly chilly but a beautiful walk, punctuated by frequent stops for cafe con leche. The most drama we encountered was trying to pass through a herd of enormous cows that had taken over the Camino as their private pasture.

Tonight we bunk in the Albergue Mercadoiro, an 800-year old stone house that was once a pilgrim hospital and is now a lovely hostel shaded by cherry trees, and serving incredible food. Dinner began with a tapa of fluffy tortilla espanola, followed by the menu del dia: smoky lentil and kale soup; fried calamari and french fries or beef stew; desert of homemade cheesecake and  fresh melon; and two full carafes of house red wine. Our entertainment: reading next to a wood stove, and cracking up over a fellow pilgrim who dared to use the scary-looking foot massage machine, complete with plastic foot covers, in order to have ´´circulacion activa.´´ Can´t wait for day two!   


-Katherine

Welcome to Galicia - Part 2.

We crossed into Galicia, up the hills and into the rain. Very light rain (most of the time), grey skies and afternoon sunshine. The villages, at least one with a total population of one person, are now more numerous, closer together, and stone. This is important because coffee breaks are closer together. Some beautiful renovations taking place turning old stone barns into beautiful houses. Most of today was on a dirt track through oak lined fields.



Wednesday we backtracked to Samos and visited the magnificent monestary de Samos, the oldest in Europe, and the largest in Spain (now occupied by only 14 monks).We all went to mass and the blessing of the pilgrims, then retired to the bar across the street for a delicious bottle of Albarino (local white wine), Galician soup, and creamy cheese and honey. Such is the life of suffering pilgrims.

We have arrived in Sarria, 118 kms. from Santiago, and the last place you can join the camino and still earn a compostela (certificate of completion of the camino and certain privilidges in the hereafter). Katherine and Chloe arrive this morning in Madrid, and are on the bus here now, to sleep in the Monestary de Magdalena tonight and start walking in the morning.

If all goes well, we expect to be in Santiago Tuesday, 10th July. Not sure what we will do if we are not walking.

Welcome to Galicia.

Yesterday we crossed over into Galicia, the final province. We are now down to about 130 kms. to go to Santiago. We have slowed down to 20 km days so that we meet the girls in Sarria, and then do the final 100 kms. all together.
Galicia, home of fine wine, delicious cooking and notorious weather (have not see that yet). Weather continues to be prefect.

 Our way has become busier in the past few days; many more Spanish folks, some groups of school kids, and herds of cows.  Among all the pilgrims along the way, the cows are by far the messiest. Also, while the rest of us politely fill our water bottles from the village fuente, the cows show few manners in this regard. But given the wonderful cheese we´ve eaten in the past few days, no complaints, 

queso de O´Cebreiro with honey

Into the Hills.

We have been out on the plains for so long that it is shock to be in the hills, climbing today and then again all day tomorrow. And suddenly cool in the shade and cold at night.

Spent last night in Villafranca de ls Bierzo. We are back in wine country and approaching Gallacia so the food is changing as well. Lovely town. Light rain late yesterday morning but today has been cloudless and brilliant.

This is the ´Door of Forgiveness´in Villafranca. Its purpose is to cover your intentions if you can not make it on to Santiago, and grant that which you seeek by going to Santiago.

Am starting to feel the distance. we are under 170 kms left to go with 500+ behind us. Aches but no real pains. Walking is a habit that is easy to get into. We are up in the morning, pack our things and out the door and moving. Everything fits in a sack on your back. Hard to imagine not doing anyting else.

We will slow down a bit so that we coordinate our pickup with Katherine and Chloe, and then walk the last 100 kms together.

Sebastion´s first Leg

Thursday, Sebastian got off the train at 05:30 and walked up the hill to the main square in Astorga. We fed him breakfast and set off by 07:00. I congratulaed him on working out the details of my email. He looked up, said that he never received an email; had simply arrived at the station, didnt see anyone, looked at the map of town and worked out where the camino went, and there I was waiting for him when he went by. Auspicious start to his camino.

We went easy on Sebastian the first day, but added a few kilometers and some nice steep hills today. The long hot trail across the farmland suddenly quit and we hit some altitude, and for the first time in weeks, broke out jackets against the cold and wind.

Beautiful climb to the Iron Cross at1505 meters, the highest point on the Camino. We all left a little momento from home at the top.

Things Fall Apart

No, not our shoes, or even us.

There are some of the most abused feet on the face of the planet walking down this hot and dusty road. One friend had to take his feet back to Madrid for a couple of days of R&R and is now back walking, four or five days behind us. In the light of dawn, there is some serious foot binding taking place in the dormitories. A couple of times I have assumed that we would never see the person again only to have them limp into town three or four days later. Every albergue has a well stocked first aid kit and most are put to good use.

And it has suddenly turned New Mexico hot; cool in the shade but after a couple of hours in the sun, it is hard work. Summer was suddenly turned on.

It is impossible to miss the spiritual nature of this walk. The guidebooks speak of the rich history and transformation. There are fellow travellers who are recovering from stroke and cancer, and the occasional tragedy. We have not set down the road with a spiritual agenda in mind, but it is impossible to miss the context.

A couple of days back in the beautiful little village Castrojeriz we were doing something in the Auberge when a French peregrino come in and gets on the pay phone back to France. He was severely disappointed that here he was, days into this experience and it simply was not working for him; he did not feel transformed and felt he was wasting his time. We did not think anything about it until on our way out of town the next day, walking about 100 meters behind another couple. We had our heads down and looking at a long climb up to the plateau when these two embrace, and the guy walks back to town and she goes on. When he walks by, we realize that it is our payphone friend. Clearly, he is headed home and she is headed for Santiago.

This event opened a discussion on transformation. Neither of us expect the heavens to part and to be handed the revelation of St Paul (or is it St Peter?) and to be called to completely change game plans (the way our French payphone friend has expected). It is more on how you connect the dots. It is assumed that the stars are all in the sky and how you build a constellation depends on how you connect the dots. More possibilities than hard rules, but not transformation.

A great deal of discussion on the nature of religion and how the Church is central to many of these small towns. The infrastructure represents a serious investment made over centuries. Many small villages did not see much change until land reform in the 1960's and then the infrastructure investments when Spain joined the European Union.

People everywhere along the camino seem to reach out and support the hundreds of strangers who walk past their door every day. It would be easy to become cynical and look to exploit those who have enough resources to leave home and spend a month (or more) walking, but we have not seen it. The revenue the camino brings must be very important to some of these little places, but what we really see is the kindness and consideration even when there is no common language. Almost all of the big albuergues have one or more volunteers to help people settle in and find a place to sleep, wash your clothes, even make you a cup of tea.

We've met other walkers who started from Le Puys in France. A woman who walked out her front door in France to make her own way to Le Puy and then walk a month to the Spanish border, and then to start what we are doing. Another guy who walked out of his door in Belgium, and another left Poland last August. There are rumors of a guy who left Beijing 3 years ago but we,ve not actually met him yet. And we have met many others who will come walk for a week every year, taking years to finally complete the entire camino. How easy it would be just to keep on walking.

Wonderful afternoon and evening in Leon yesterday. Walked out of town in the dawn and into the countryside. We will spend the night Chez Tio Pepe in Villar de Mazarife. We have another 2 days in the plains and then climb into the hills of Galecia.

Finding our Way

We were pleasantly surprised to find out that the main trail is really pretty hard to miss. There are yellow arrows on building when you weave through towns and villages, and then cement milestones with the yellow scallop shell tile. The maps are very detailed and we usually have a good idea of where were can end up. Anyone you ask will know the camino, and often people come out of their house to point out the way.

Only once have we pitched up to discover that the auberge where we planned sleep had collapsed over the winter and had not yet been repaired. There is a fair amount of new construction and Hostals (modest, inexpensive hotels) being built. An Alberge tends to run USD 10 and you share space (last night we were 8 to a room; us, 2 Koreans, a french couple and two italian women with miserable feet). A Hostal will be a bit more and provide a private room. So far, we have ended up in Hostals when the Auberge has been full, fell down, or just general chaos (the elderly woman running the reception had to take a siesta just as a wave of folks wandered in). The Church auberges are completely by donation and include a communal (always delicious) dinner. This is an entertaining way to meer a very random collection of folks from everywhere. We are speaking a great deal of French as there seem to be lots of French walking and it is often the 2nd language for many folks in Spain.

Our map also tends to recommend the direct way and then an alternate path that runs through the rural areas and away from the roads. This afternoon we went 8 km down what is know as the Via Romana, or the roman road that has been gravelled but is basically the work of roman engineers 2000 years ago. This is also a great way to loose the crowd.

San Nicolas del Real Camino

Town of about 12 when you count absolutely everyone and everything. Lovely little adobe Auberge that has a bar and Garden on the ground floor and a long attic broken in 4 room with bunks for the 20 or so pilgrims (www.alberguelaganares.es ) who brave the long walk in from Carrion de los Condes where we were last night.

The pilgrim´s trail out of Carrion de los Condes is a 18 km trek out along the fields with nothing (some one did set up an unexpected coffee stall at about km 12) but blue skies and mountains to the north. All the villages after Carrion were desperately small but we did stop for coffee and a tortilla espanol (eggs and potatoes). We took several of the alternate routes that climbed away from the rural roads and only got lost once, with a short detour through a oat field to get back to the track.

The trail tomorrow is again long and fairly isolated and we end up in Calzadilla de los Hermanos, another very small town.

Glorious 25 plus day that climbed from Castrojeriz, up the meseta and back down along the Canal de Castillo, formerly used to transport grain from Fromista, the bread basket of Castillo, to the rest of the kingdom. All sorts of historic sites here, a beautiful church from 1066, another two or so from the 15th century.

But all are overshadowed by the fact that Fromista is the birthplace of San Telmo, Patron Saint of Sailors. That is him on the pedestal and the intrepid voyager on the right with the hat.
 
The country side is beautiful, wide open with climbs up to the open spaces and then huge vistas. We are getting out early before the sun begins to bake and try to tuck in someplace out of the sun by 14:00. Out of the sun, we are still cool and the churches with their thick stone walls are frigid.

Tuesday.
Just landed in Castrojeriz. Google it.
249 kms down the road and 460 to go.

Did too much on Sunday when we walked 40 kms. into Burgos. Made a late start on Monday and a now a light day on Tuesday. Lovely, lovely trail across the high mesas and into small villages. Threat of rain this morning that has since disolved into a clear blue day.

Since Burgos, the land has flattened out and climbed. We are away from the roads and walk kilometers and kilometers down trail and dirt tack, high and flat, with a feeling that this is in the sky. Wheat and barley, herds of sheep with bells, stone walls, red poppies. Villages the color of stone where the church steeple appears over the ridge.

A couple of nights, we have pitched up at the Church auberge (read dormitory... one big room with multiple bunks) where we help make supper, and then eat a communal meal. There is always a mass and the pilgrims are blessed (before you eat!). The community is fantastic, lively and entertaining. Koreans, americans, lots of French and a smattering of just some crazy guys walking from Germany or Belgium. Met a young Spanish guy who grew up in Kinshasa when we were there. Seems like lots of Americans.

Days are comfortable. We are usually out of the auberge and walking by 07:00 and will knock off 10 kms by 09:00 or 09:30. This means, of course, coffee and a spanish egg and potato omellet. Put feet up and chat with whoever else is on the same schedule. Do that again by noon. Walking is pretty easy and we have never been winded by the gradual climbs. Some of the decents have been challenging and Jill does not like to go down. We then look at the map and work out how far to go to find a place to stay. If we need to do another 5 or 10, that is just over two hours (not today...) and that is it for the day. Challenging, but it is now two and we have found a place to stay, washed up, run laundry and will go look for a place to sit in the plaza and drink wine.

Supper is impossible before 19:00. Then there is a set Menu des Pelegrino (Pilgrim´s Menu) for $10, including a bottle of wine. In by 21:00 because there is always some character who needs to be out the door at 05:00 (but its dark!) and wakes everyone in the room or better, a collection of guys who snore like buffalo. One guy hands out earplugs (we have!).

We do have a group of people that we see over and over. We have lost some and gained a few more. It is fun to pick up a conversation 2 days later. Interesting characters.

We are good. Still a bit sore from Sunday´s excess. No blisters. Packs are too heavy but Jill finished her novel, and donated her flipflops to charity; what will go next?

Life is good. Very, very good.

Tim & Jill

Villafranca Montes des Oca

We are at Villafranca Montes de Oca.

We were in Grañon last night. Only place to stay in this very, very small village was the Church rectory floor. Lovely placid garden out back, perfect for playing the mando. We all helped the chef make dinner and Tim patched up everyone in need with our extensive blister kit. Ate with the village priest and the 30 some other walkers. Up at six, packs on and out of the village by seven, walked through 2 villages with no coffee and then breakfast and lunch in Belorado. Lovely square in the sunshine. Then on to Villafranca. All in all, 27 kms of glorious scenery. Sleeping in a hotel tonight.

This is about 125 kms. done. All lovely.

All good. a few aches and pains but nothing to slow us down. Walking well. Cursing packs and all the little bits that we brought. It´s fun casting off unnecessary stuff as we go. A very sunburnt California girl is now carrying our Bali balm.

Najera

June 14 -

We are good, really good. Hot, tired, and just did 30 kms. We are in Najera which means that we have already done our first 100 kms. Google the place or Google earth.

Tonight, we are in a hostel run by the town, a long room with a double row of bunks down the middle and then a separate row down each wall. We just washed socks and underwear, drying in the sun. Last night we were in Logrono, in a similar place run by the Church. Not to worry, the night before we put in a long day and the only place to stay in the really small village was a Casa Rural, or a small 3 room hotel. Beautiful.

We are up early, walk 2 hours or 10 km, breakfast of coffee and tortilla espanola, then smack out another 10 km. Just the way that the towns are for now, we seem to alternate between 20 and 30 km. That will start to change tomorrow when there are more villages.

Life is good. Sore, hot, thirsty, grape vines and olive trees. a month of this??

Puenta de la Reina

Up at dawn to face the mountain of stuff we brought. We did brilliantly on clothes and then the gadgets, accessories and essential supplies took over. We just started leaving stuff.

Off at 07:30 through the sleeping town. Symbols for the trail are set in the sidewalk. Old man stopped us to give us directions and a "bien camino." Trail into wheat field and a long climb to the ridge covered in huge windmills. Beautiful afternoon under grey skies. Light rain held off until we checked into this dorm.  Sixty bunks in a long room. Showered, rested, walked into town. Waiting on supper and an eye on the weather. All good.

Plans.

The plan is to leave Dar es Salaam on Friday morning, through London and on to Madrid in the evening. Meet Jill's flight on Saturday morning and take a bus to Pamplona in the afternoon.  Then, Sunday, a few chores and start to walk. Weather forecast is for some rain until Wednesday.