There do appear to be a number of fairly 0bvious lessons learned from walking this distance.
- Everything goes into your bag. There was regularly a moment of anxiety about 20 minutes after we had left where we had slept; what did I leave behind? I'd take my pack off in the middle of the trail, open up and check that I had in fact packed all of the essentials. We were packing everything into nicely organized stuff sacks so it was easy to check clothes, sleeping bag, first-aid, toilet kit, and money. I am sure that part of the anxiety was simply the fact that the boundaries around our daily existence were right there, in one bag, in one place and no more.
- You own it, you carry it. That first morning when we had everything spread out all over the hotel room was a terrible shock. Where did all of this stuff come from? We had planned carefully for our clothes but we had not put the same time and attention towards all the essential gizmos and doodads. And suddenly, they were everywhere with no where else to go. I left the hotel looking like a pack mule.
My African mentality of packing something because I might need it was wrong. I really should have taken all of the stuff that was absolutely essential and left half of that behind (an old trick from Outward Bound). The solar charger, the collapsible bucket, 3 rolls of tape, mandolin, a phone and an iTouch. Decide and discard; discipline required.
The other shock was to come home and walk into the house, look around and ask the same question; where did all of this stuff come from? It has to go! Post camino, if I am buying something, I look at it three times to decide if I really need (to carry) it. Something that I would never have considered before is now a deliberate choice. And If I buy one thing, give two away.
- Slow down and look around. We did almost 500 miles in 31 days. When we started walking, we were focused on how far it was and how long it would take us to get there. The French seemed to be the most focused and the idea of a detour or a longer (more scenic) route only distracted from the objective of reaching their destination. Of course, they had been walking since Le Puy, twice the distance and twice the amount of time. But they did not have any interest in distraction.
Now that we have finished, I am anxious to go back and do it all again and to go as slow as I can. Stop everywhere and go walk up every side track and to scenic overlook. If there is a village a couple klicks up the road, go. Can I drag this out over 3 months? We met a couple of people who were walking back to where they came from.
- Farther along. You would assume that folks who are out to walk 500 miles and spend a month doing it would we willing to walk a couple of hundred meters more for a great view, a unique piece of history, a nicer place to sleep and something special to eat. Not so. Consistently, even religiously, pilgrims were parked in that first bar on the edge of town, and would drop their bags in the first albuerge when 100 yards up the road their would be a nice, quiet place half empty. There was an important advantage to walking that extra 10 minutes and looking around. Another reason to keep a pack to a minimum.
- Off cycle. The guide books are extremely informative; distances, condition of the trail, places to stay and places to eat. The only two 'mistakes' we found were a municipal albuergue whose roof caved in over the winter, and another that burned down (on the Feast of St. Elmo!).
The surprise was that most people start and stop their day as the guidebook indicated and just fell into the book's cycle of days. When we looked ahead at places to stay and sought out small town that were just under or just over the proposed schedule, it was as if we had discovered out own private camino with fewer people and more adventurous souls. Walk on.
- It is all about socks. We walked the entire way without a blister. Part of this was because our feet were used to exercise. Part of it was good walking shoes that were neither slippers or massive boots. Yet I remain convinced that it was the socks that mattered. We saw some of the ugliest feet imaginable on people with 15 kilos on their back and walking with running shoes and flimsy gym socks. This does not work.
Don't spend a fortune on shoes and then scrimp on socks. Interestingly, these were the same folks who would not stop to let their feet heal until a doctor ordered them to stop (or amputate!).
It should be obvious that I am getting ready to go again.
Tim
