Camino Rules

There do appear to be a number of fairly 0bvious lessons learned from walking this distance. 

- Everything goes into your bag. There was regularly a moment of anxiety about 20 minutes after we had left where we had slept; what did I leave behind? I'd take my pack off in the middle of the trail, open up and check that I had in fact packed all of the essentials. We were packing everything into nicely organized stuff sacks so it was easy to check clothes, sleeping bag, first-aid, toilet kit, and money. I am sure that part of the anxiety was simply the fact that the boundaries around our daily existence were right there, in one bag, in one place and no more.

- You own it, you carry it. That first morning when we had everything spread out all over the hotel room was a terrible shock. Where did all of this stuff come from? We had planned carefully for our clothes but we had not put the same time and attention towards all the essential gizmos and doodads. And suddenly, they were everywhere with no where else to go. I left the hotel looking like a pack mule.

My African mentality of packing something because I might need it was wrong. I really should have taken all of the stuff that was absolutely essential and left half of that behind (an old trick from Outward Bound). The solar charger, the collapsible bucket, 3 rolls of tape, mandolin, a phone and an iTouch. Decide and discard; discipline required. 

The other shock was to come home and walk into the house, look around and ask the same question; where did all of this stuff come from? It has to go! Post camino, if I am buying something, I look at it three times to decide if I really need (to carry) it. Something that I would never have considered before is now a deliberate choice. And If I buy one thing, give two away.

- Slow down and look around. We did almost 500 miles in 31 days. When we started walking, we were focused on how far it was and how long it would take us to get there. The French seemed to be the most focused and the idea of a detour or a longer (more scenic) route only distracted from the objective of reaching their destination. Of course, they had been walking since Le Puy, twice the distance and twice the amount of time. But they did not have any interest in distraction.

Now that we have finished, I am anxious to go back and do it all again and to go as slow as I can. Stop everywhere and go walk up every side track and to scenic overlook. If there is a village a couple klicks up the road, go. Can I drag this out over 3 months? We met a couple of people who were walking back to where they came from.

- Farther along.  You would assume that folks who are out to walk 500 miles and spend a month doing it would we willing to walk a couple of hundred meters more for a great view, a unique piece of history, a nicer place to sleep and something special to eat. Not so. Consistently, even religiously, pilgrims were parked in that first bar on the edge of town, and would drop their bags in the first albuerge when 100 yards up the road their would be a nice, quiet place half empty. There was an important advantage to walking that extra 10 minutes and looking around. Another reason to keep a pack to a minimum.

- Off cycle. The guide books are extremely informative; distances, condition of the trail, places to stay and places to eat. The only two 'mistakes' we found were a municipal albuergue whose roof caved in over the winter, and another that burned down (on the Feast of St. Elmo!). 

The surprise was that most people start and stop their day as the guidebook indicated and just fell into the book's cycle of days. When we looked ahead at places to stay and sought out small town that were just under or just over the proposed schedule, it was as if we had discovered out own private camino with fewer people and more adventurous souls. Walk on.

- It is all about socks. We walked the entire way without a blister. Part of this was because our feet were used to exercise. Part of it was good walking shoes that were neither slippers or massive boots. Yet I remain convinced that it was the socks that mattered. We saw some of the ugliest feet imaginable on people with 15 kilos on their back and walking with running shoes and flimsy gym socks. This does not work. Don't spend a fortune on shoes and then scrimp on socks. Interestingly, these were the same folks who would not stop to let their feet heal until a doctor ordered them to stop (or amputate!).

It should be obvious that I am getting ready to go again.  


Tim

Brave Caminantes of the Road.

And all brave caminantes awarded Compostelas by the official Office of Peregrinos.

"Next time I think I´ll bring socks."
- Sebastian

"It's like eating an elephant - you do it one bite at a time."
- Tim

"You own it, you carry it."
- Katherine

"Is this vegan?"
- Chloe

"Who´s on the Camino del Norte with me next year?"
- Jill

Lunch in Galicia

That last 6 kms. after 2 bottles of wine at lunch is a killer.

Seriously hard work...

This is ´pulpo´, salad, Galicia soup and white wine in ceramic cups. What you can not see is that this is a huge hall with 30 or 40 long tables, a hoard of hungry pilgrims and as many local folks in for the speciality of the house. A good time was had by all. But that last walk of the day was finally in the sunshine.

Buen camino!

When brand new, high-tech, multi-pocketed backpacks suddenly showed up on our doorsteps, Chloe and I knew we had unwittingly agreed to join our parents on the Camino de Santiago. Not that anyone was objecting to a vacation in Spain! But this was the ultimate commitment device.

So a flight and two bus rides later, we arrived in the town of Sarria. Like many things in Spain, the monastery we slept in was a mish-mash of old and new: a severe stone building with its shuttered cloisters, but a kitchen for the pilgrims complete with coffee vending machines and a flat screen TV.

The next morning we were treated to a light day - just 20 km - through the Spanish countryside. It was misty and slightly chilly but a beautiful walk, punctuated by frequent stops for cafe con leche. The most drama we encountered was trying to pass through a herd of enormous cows that had taken over the Camino as their private pasture.

Tonight we bunk in the Albergue Mercadoiro, an 800-year old stone house that was once a pilgrim hospital and is now a lovely hostel shaded by cherry trees, and serving incredible food. Dinner began with a tapa of fluffy tortilla espanola, followed by the menu del dia: smoky lentil and kale soup; fried calamari and french fries or beef stew; desert of homemade cheesecake and  fresh melon; and two full carafes of house red wine. Our entertainment: reading next to a wood stove, and cracking up over a fellow pilgrim who dared to use the scary-looking foot massage machine, complete with plastic foot covers, in order to have ´´circulacion activa.´´ Can´t wait for day two!   


-Katherine

Welcome to Galicia - Part 2.

We crossed into Galicia, up the hills and into the rain. Very light rain (most of the time), grey skies and afternoon sunshine. The villages, at least one with a total population of one person, are now more numerous, closer together, and stone. This is important because coffee breaks are closer together. Some beautiful renovations taking place turning old stone barns into beautiful houses. Most of today was on a dirt track through oak lined fields.



Wednesday we backtracked to Samos and visited the magnificent monestary de Samos, the oldest in Europe, and the largest in Spain (now occupied by only 14 monks).We all went to mass and the blessing of the pilgrims, then retired to the bar across the street for a delicious bottle of Albarino (local white wine), Galician soup, and creamy cheese and honey. Such is the life of suffering pilgrims.

We have arrived in Sarria, 118 kms. from Santiago, and the last place you can join the camino and still earn a compostela (certificate of completion of the camino and certain privilidges in the hereafter). Katherine and Chloe arrive this morning in Madrid, and are on the bus here now, to sleep in the Monestary de Magdalena tonight and start walking in the morning.

If all goes well, we expect to be in Santiago Tuesday, 10th July. Not sure what we will do if we are not walking.

Welcome to Galicia.

Yesterday we crossed over into Galicia, the final province. We are now down to about 130 kms. to go to Santiago. We have slowed down to 20 km days so that we meet the girls in Sarria, and then do the final 100 kms. all together.
Galicia, home of fine wine, delicious cooking and notorious weather (have not see that yet). Weather continues to be prefect.

 Our way has become busier in the past few days; many more Spanish folks, some groups of school kids, and herds of cows.  Among all the pilgrims along the way, the cows are by far the messiest. Also, while the rest of us politely fill our water bottles from the village fuente, the cows show few manners in this regard. But given the wonderful cheese we´ve eaten in the past few days, no complaints, 

queso de O´Cebreiro with honey

Into the Hills.

We have been out on the plains for so long that it is shock to be in the hills, climbing today and then again all day tomorrow. And suddenly cool in the shade and cold at night.

Spent last night in Villafranca de ls Bierzo. We are back in wine country and approaching Gallacia so the food is changing as well. Lovely town. Light rain late yesterday morning but today has been cloudless and brilliant.

This is the ´Door of Forgiveness´in Villafranca. Its purpose is to cover your intentions if you can not make it on to Santiago, and grant that which you seeek by going to Santiago.

Am starting to feel the distance. we are under 170 kms left to go with 500+ behind us. Aches but no real pains. Walking is a habit that is easy to get into. We are up in the morning, pack our things and out the door and moving. Everything fits in a sack on your back. Hard to imagine not doing anyting else.

We will slow down a bit so that we coordinate our pickup with Katherine and Chloe, and then walk the last 100 kms together.